ETRUSCAN COOKING

By Chiana and Orcia valley

This is a brief but possibly complete review of typical products and traditional cuisine of an area which, perhaps wrongly, we continue to identify with the Valdichiana Only. It is also hoped to clear up a certain number of misconceptions which have been created by unscupolous restaurateurs intent only on satisfying (or anticipating) their own clients desires.

The products of this region, typical precisely because of the soil, climate and nature of the people, are today forced to share the company of many other "imported" products, maybe from nearly Umbria or the provinces of Grosseto and Florence, but far from the "Chianina" culture.

But the problem has a much simpler solution than the above premise would have us imagine for such is the dintinctive personality of these products and obvius the links between them that the risk of mistakenly taking a certain product for typical is in reality almost negligable.

This is also the key to the ever more widespread practice among producers to "label" goods destined for the marchetplace, coining new "Denominazioni di Origine" which, as is already the case for wines, guarantee the origin of oils and cheeses etc..

Wine is probably the most typical and well-known product of this area, with a history unequalled in other parts of the world, and the only acceptable drink to appear on our tables.

For over a generation, and with ever increasing vigour, the flagbearer has been the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, the first Italian wine to have successfully met the rigid criteria imposed by the lawof 01.07.1980 for a D.O.C.G. wine (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita). Montepulciano's Vino Nobile comes from a limited area of production on the edge of the Commune boundary withan altitude varying between 250 and 600 metres above sea level. According to the discipline in force, productions is limited to a maximum of 80 quintals per hectare with an effective yield of no more than 65% after a two-year Vino Nobile is the results of a careful mix of different species of grape, the prugnolo gentile, canaiolo nero, mammolo, trebbiano toscano, malvasia del Chianti and pulcinculo and is bottled after a long period of ageing in oak casks. It has a ruby-red colour with hints of amber and purple highlights. The flavour is harmonius, aristocratic, smooth and easy on the palate. It accompanies roast and grilled meat dishes and strong cheeses, but can also be drunk on its own as a partner in meditation. It is served at a temperature of between 18 and 20 degrees C. Three fundamental rules must be observed: the cork must be removed a couple of hours before drinking, the dish is specifically chosen to accompany it (taking into account its superiority), the glass used has a stem and is trasparent so that its putity can be enjoyed, its warmth, its refinement and its history. Other Valdichiana wines include the Chianti (the Colli Senesi of Palazzone is highly prized), also DOCG, among the oldest and the Bianco Vergine Valdichiana DOC, among the oldest and most traditional of the Tuscan wines, known for centuries. It is the candidate for the platonic title of "Chianti Bianco" (white Chianti), or rather representative of a wider range of Tuscan wines not tied exclusively to the "reds".

Also predominant is the olive oil which, despite the serious damage caused to the trees during particularly hard winters of the last decade, remains in great demand both at home and abroad.

A flavoursome and nutritively complete oil, as common in the home as bread

Horse d'Oeuvre

"Crostini neri"

Typical tuscan starter. Prepare a smooth pat of cows sleen, anchovies, capers, some onion, salt and pepper. Flovour with white wine. Spread on slices of toasted home-made bread. Also good serve cold.

"Bico"

A type of hard flat bread, cooked in the wood-fire, can be a substitute of the bread or if stuffed with ham could be a good snack. Can be flauvored with small pieces of cheese.

"Bruschetta"

Toasted tuscany slices bread, dressed with garlic, pepper, little salt and pure olive oil.

Products in oil

Among the basic elements of Tuscan cuisine one generally finds products in oil, onions, beets, and field lettuce - all of which should obviously be tasted along with typical, unsalted, Tuscan bread.

First Courses

"Ribollita"

Prepare a base of herbs with bacon, potatoes and boiled "cannellini" beans. Season with salt and pepper. Cook in the oven. Before serving cook again for a while in the oven and add a little more olive oil. Puor over slices of toasted tuscan bread; serve hot. Can be flauvored with fresh onions.

"Panzanella"

It's a typical tuscan dish, delicious and easy to prepare. Soak some bread in water, crumble it and season with a little winegar, olive oil, salt and pepper and it is enriched with tomatoes, onion and basil.

"Pici"

This is a type of pasta made from a few basic ingredients: water, flour and little salt. Prepare the dough. Roll it by hands into a thick spaghetti shape. Season with a breadcrumb sauce or with garlic sauce.

"Pappardelle alla lepre"

Home-made pasta cutted in wide strips. The sauce needs of a particular preparation: cut the hare into bite-sized pieces and let it marinaded in a mixture of herbes, salt and red wine. Cook in the sauce adding the intrails finely chopped. Dress it.

Second courses

"Tagliata ai ferri"

A thickly cut beef steak, raffermed in garlic and olive oil sauce, should be grilled on both sides until still slightly rare. Cutter in small pieces and serve it with lime and "rucola".

"Scottiglia"

Prepare a mixture of red and white meats and brown in a fryng pan, adding peeled tomatoes and red peppers. "Water-down" with red wine.

"Tordi al girarrosto"

Thrush cooked on a spit with pork, sausage and slices of tuscan bread. Preferably spread with a little garlic. Season while cooking with sage, salt, pepper and olive oil.

"Chianina beef"

The meats which the Sienese prefer are boar with tomatoes, roast pheasant, and choice, pure-bread, Chianina beef.

"Fagioli all'uccelletto"

Typical siennese side dish. Use tuscan "cannellini" beans dressed in "extra virgin olive oil, bacon, sage, garlic and few peeled tomatoes just to give color. Serve with pork meats and sausages.

Cheeses

Sienese cheeses, like most Tuscan cheeses, are primarily made from sheep's milk. The pecorino of the "Crete Senesi," pastures where the sheep graze on distinctly fragrant grasses and essences, has been famous since ancient times. It is an excellent cheese either fresh or aged and has a white, red, or black rind. The famous "Marzolino" is produced exclusively with milk from the spring mounths (Easter) and has a fresh and very delicate taste.

Salted Meats

Usually the salt meats are served as hors-d'oeuvres or during the day as snaks with slices of toasted bread.

"Buristo e soppressata"

Tipical salami boiled abd obtained from pork-preparation.

"Capocollo"

This is ligthly salted pork-meat, spiced with fennel, pepper, garlic and wine: it is ideal a startes or snack.

"Prosciutto e salame"

Puked pork meats prepared in the old traditional way, seasoning for 6-9 months.

"Finocchiona"

Well-pepered sausage meat with fennel seeds, exclusively prepared with pork meat.

"Salsiccia"

A tipical tuscan speciality; choice pork meats, flauvored with garlic, salt and pepper.

Cakes

There is a great deal of variety in traditional Sienese dessert: Cavallucci, Ricciarelli, Copate, aside from the home-made desserts like "biscotti della nonna" and fruits tarts. Panforte, which goes back to the Middle Age, is made with almonds, candied fruit, honey, and spices. "Panpepato" is a dessert which has more spices including pepper.

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